Italian cooking gives Hong Kong diners, who are notoriously snobbish about their food, several readily apprehensible points of reference.
It was, however, Caravaggio, the tragic realist, with his dramatically articulate figures sculpted by darkness, his appetite for common life and his candor about the apprehensible .
What he craved was neither luxury nor the high rhetoric of history painting, but apprehensible truth, visible, familiar, open to touch and repetition.