The starters are rustic but tasty treats, like a warming leek-and-potato broth ($10) and a serving of steamed mussels, cider and lovage ($13).
For salads, shopping lists may include some attractive exotic entries: lovage, hyssop, yarrow, vetch, pansies, nasturtiums, fava bean blossoms and shepherd's purse.
Having mastered the basic basil, rosemary and sage, gardeners move on to lovage stems, bee-balm blossoms and lemon grass.